93+/100 » IL CARBONAIONE 2008 • "Il Carbonaione Shows gorgeous depth, precision and nuance, all of which are quite rare in 2008. Layers of smoke, tar, licorice and beautifully integrated French oak wrap around the deep fruit in its superb, articulated Il Carbonaione. Firm yet elegant tannins support the finish. I will not be surprised if the 2008 merits a higher score in a few years’ time. Il Carbonaione is 100% Sangiovese from an ancient clone native to this part of Chianti Classico called Lamole. The wine is aged in 350 liter French oak barrels, 50% of which are new. As it ages, Il Carbonaione often acquires notes of cedar, spices and sweet herbs that at times recall right-bank Bordeaux. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028".

91/100 » CAPOGATTO 2008 • "The Capogatto is also quite beautiful in this vintage. Capogatto is a blend of equal parts Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, aged in new French oak barrels. Jammy dark fruit, blueberries, cassis, violets and white flowers are some of the notes that flow from this mid-weight, Bordeaux inspired wine. This is a classy, understated wine that needs a few years to develop the full breadth of its aromas and flavors. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2023".

Selvagrossa is one of the most fascinating emerging properties in the Marche. The Cabernet Franc Poveriano in particular is showing remarkable potential. Brothers Alessandro and Alberto Taddei certainly seem to be on the right track, even if 2008 didn't give them the conditions to match their superb 2007s.

89/100 » POVERIANO 2008 • "The 2008 Poveriano (Cabernet Franc) emerges from the glass with expressive dark red fruit, grilled herbs, licorice and spices. Initially a touch compact, the wine fills out nicely on the mid-palate and finish. The 2008 is a relatively understated Poveriano that is best enjoyed on the early side. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023". --AG

87/100 » TRIMPILIN 2008 • "The 2008 Trimpilin (Sangiovese) shows limited depth in its fruit, with hard, angular tannins that clamp down on the finish. Both bottles I tasted were lean and compact, suggesting underripe fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015". --AG

87/100 » MUSCHÉN 2009 • "The 2009 Muschen is a pretty entry-level red. Sweet floral and red berry flavors come together nicely in this mid-weight, fresh wine meant for near-term enjoyment. Muschen is 50% Sangiovese, 30% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014". --AG

93/100 » BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VIGNA DELLE RAUNATE 2006 • "The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna delle Raunate is a more delicate, floral wine than the straight Brunello. It shows lovely richness in its sweet, succulent red cherries, crushed flowers, herbs and mint. All of the elements are woven together beautifully in this engaging, totally satisfying Brunello. Fine, silky tannins caress the palate on the long, fragrant finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026". --AG

92/100 » BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2006 • "The estate’s 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is a big, powerful wine packed with black cherries, smoke, tar, leather and licorice. This is a fairly intense, brooding Brunello that needs further time in bottle, but the depth of the fruit and the expressiveness of the bouquet suggest a bright future. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026". --AG

89/100 » ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2009 • "Mocali’s 2009 Rosso di Montalcino is a pretty wine laced with sweet red cherries, roses and flowers. The wine comes together nicely in a mid-weight, pleasing style. This is a delicious wine from Mocali, especially for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014". --AG

89/100 » BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2006 • "The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is an attractive, fleshy wine with good richness and texture in its red fruit. This supple Brunello will offer its finest drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016". --AG

87/100 » ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2009 • "The 2009 Rosso di Montalcino from Poggio Nardone presents dark fruit, spices, mocha and leather in a burly-four square expression of Sangiovese. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015". --AG

94/100 » IL CARBONAIONE 2007 • "The 2007 Il Carbonaione (Sangiovese) bursts from the glass with layers of dark blackberries, espresso, flowers and spices. Sumptuous and flamboyantly ripe, the Carbonaione boasts superb purity and a multi-dimensional, textured finish. Carboniaone has a tendency to acquire Bordeax-like qualities as it ages. This will be another fascinating wine to follow over the coming years. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027". | AG

92+/100 » CAPOGATTO 2007 • "The 2007 Capogatto is a Bordeaux-inspired red that was previously only available at the famed Entoca Pinchiorri in Florence. Red cherries, mocha, minerals, grilled herbs and French oak emerge reluctantly from this inward, potent red. The Capogatto is one of the more austere, clenched Tuscan 2007s. If the tannins soften, the wine may ultimately merit a higher score, but that seems like a big question mark at this point. The finish is exceptionally beautiful, long and perfumed, though, which makes me hopeful the wine will eventually find its inner balance. Capogatto is Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027". | AG

92/100 » POVERIANO 2007 • "The 2007 Poveriano (Cabernet Franc) is truly beautiful. Here the French oak is much more complementary to the dark, varietal Cabernet Franc fruit. Wild herbs, minerals and espresso develop in the glass, adding further layers of complexity. Sweet, silky tannins round out the layered finish. This is one of the more distinctive, unique wines I tasted from central Italy this year, and it is highly recommended. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019". | AG

90/100 » TRIMPILIN 2007 • "The 2007 Trimpilin (Sangiovese) is a round, generous wine laced with perfumed dark fruit, spices, minerals and flowers. This is a fairly rich style of Sangiovese, and while a little more varietal character might be nice, the wine’s elegance and finesse are commendable. With a little more measured use of French oak the Trimpilin could be a significantly more complex and interesting bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017". | AG

91/100 » BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VIGNA DELLE RAUNATE 2005 • "The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna delle Raunate offers up violets, dark cherries, minerals and spices in a style that is at once fresher and more linear than the regular bottling. There is gorgeous clarity, depth and definition in the glass, along with an attractive drive that leads to the focused finish. This is a very pretty effort from Mocali. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020". --AG

90/100 » BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 • "The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino emerges with racy, heady, super-ripe dark fruit, truffles, earthiness and spices that is irresistible. The fruit is initially round and harmonious, then loses a touch of depth and persistence on the mid-palate, only to come together nicely again on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025". --AG

90/100 » BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2004 • "The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva offers up sweet scents of pipe tobacco, cedar, spices and red cherries in a beautifully layered style. Fine, silky tannins frame a long, refined finish. This is one of the more mid-weight 2004 Riservas, and it should be approachable with a minimum of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022". --AG

88/100 » ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2008 • "Mocali’s 2008 Rosso di Montalcino is one of the more generous, ripe Rossos in this vintage. Red cherries, herbs and sweet spices emerge from this pleasing mid-weight offering. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012". --AG

87/100 » BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 • "Poggio Nardone’s 2005 Brunello di Montalcino emerges from the glass with a big, meaty expression of wild cherries, earthiness, smoke, licorice and tobacco. This is an especially rich, bold Brunello packed with fruit, but elements of overripeness and oxidation detract from the overall balance. Still, the raw materials here seem promising. I have a hard time thinking Poggio Nardone couldn’t make a better wine with more attention to farming, winemaking and elevage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017". --AG

87/100 » BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2004 • "The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is similarly over-ripe in its stewed fruit and spices, while the oak is totally overdone. Despite an initial burst of fruit, the wine falls short on the mid-palate. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018". --AG

Proprietors Vittorio and Jurij Fiore craft one of Tuscany’s most unique wines from their vineyards high in the hills of Greve. Il Carbonaione is 100% old-vine Sangiovese made from the prized Lamole clone, a rare and prized mutation of Sangiovese found only in this part of Greve. The Fiores give Il Carbonaione roughly one year in 350 liter oak barrels (50% new), of which 90% is French and 10% American. Il Carbonaione is one of the most age-worthy wines in Tuscany, and has a track record of developing beautifully in bottle. It remains one of the best relative values in fine, ageworthy wine. My notes from a vertical going back to the first vintage, 1992, can be found on erobertparker.com.